Monday, August 8, 2016

Working Wine Harvest 2016 California

Turkovich Wine Harvest 2016
A Weekly Adventure of Working a Wine Harvest
A Rite of Passage for a Wino




Week 1 

Training
Before any of the actual cellar and harvest work started there was a two day training; things covered during training consisted of electrical use and safety, pumps, hoses, valves and connection, safety equipment, sanitation area, water use, air compressor, destemmer, press, reds and white wines (protocols and equipment), barrel sanitation, chemicals and gasses such as (caustic soda, citric acid, PAA (PerAceticAcid), nitrogen, carbon dioxide, and KMBS (Potassium Meta Bi Sulfate). 



Day 1
I arrived at the winery early, so I luckily got to follow the winemaker Luciana Turkovich, around the vineyards to cut and gather some grape clusters in order to see how far along the grapes were as far as Brix levels and pH, and if they were almost ready for harvest.
Frolicking around the vineyards...well not actually, there are ways/techniques for collecting clusters for a better sample of the grapes to bring back to the lab for analysis.
 As the winemaker and I walked the vineyard, we skipped a few rows at a time and began collecting clusters again. Going from one side of the row to the other collecting the same amount of clusters in order increase the accuracy of total samples. We continued this through several pairs of rows!

 Why not just pick a few clusters and be done with it?
 Well...collecting throughout the entire vineyard block is important to do if the block varies significantly in soils, typography, or other factors that may affect vine growth.
Random one may call it, and to me, I thought we were randomly picking clusters, but nothing is as it seems and when one is an intern...ask! ask tons of questions and learn! 



On this trip we were collecting clusters from the AlbariƱo blocks. 







This is where the wine making magic happens, the cellar and wine making facility.  




Stainless steel tanks where fermentation is going to take place soon.



The room of wooden barrels where previous vintages are maturing; some in neutral barrels, and some not....allowing the wine to soak up toasty goodness. 







The lab
July 28th 




The first day after training, grapes still weren't ready, so what to do?
Top barrels off from last year's vintage!
Before the winery decides to top anything off they need to check the pH and SO2 levels in the wine, this needs to be done in order to understand how much sulfur needs to be added to the maturing wine.
Why is it important to add SO2? Protection of course! You don't want your wine smelling of rank Sherry or bruised apples do you?

"Sulfur dioxide plays two important roles.
Firstly, it is an anti-microbial agent, and as such is used to help curtail the growth of undesirable fault producing yeasts and bacteria. Secondly, it acts as an antioxidant, safeguarding the wine's fruit integrity and protecting it against browning." ~The Aroma Dictionary 

"Well if it's so good, why not add bucket loads of the stuff?
 As with most things, it does have its downsides. When present in excess, it can cause a healthy ferment to stop before the yeast has converted all the grape sugar to alcohol. Furthermore, as the bacteria responsible for malolactic fermentation are particularly sensitive to SO2, excessive amounts will almost certainly block its onset. This lack of resistance to SO2 by malolactic bacteria can be very handy when a winemaker is attempting to make a wine that does not benefit from malo, such as a crisp fruity Riesling or a Rose´. However, malo is a defining component of the style of most full bodied dry white, and nearly all red wines. Therefore, having excessive SO2 present at the time when malo would normally occur is particularly undesirable.
When SO2 is greatly in excess, it can also produce a pungent aroma in white wines, considered by most to be a fault. The aroma is best described as that of a match that has just been struck. Many people have trouble smelling the sulfurous aroma of SO2, but instead perceive it as a irritation of the membranes of the nose. High SO2 can also render the palate of the wine harsh, metallic and frequently bitter." ~SO2 Edu.

Checking the pH levels in the maturing wine



Test for current sulfur dioxide S02 levels in the ageing wine. 




Maturing Viognier being tested for its' SO2 levels.


Now that we know how much sulfur needs to be added to the maturing wine to protect it from oxidization and microorganisms, we can get started on topping. 

 Barrels, barrels, and more barrels! The majority of these are full and needed to be topped off, which equals a lot of skilled forklift work getting barrels down and around.





 Sulfur stirring




Siphoning, defined as the flow of liquids through tubes, or for me...accidentally drinking wine by force! But it must be done! In order to move wine from barrels to kegs, which means easy transportation when moving around the cellar and topping off the many barrels of wine present here.






Topping: less oxygen means less oxidization
In ageing barrels wine evaporates, which leaves surface area in the barrels, filling up the barrel reduces the surface area. If there is any free surface area, oxygen can interact with the rest of the wine and put the wine at risk of oxidization; topping up these barrels is the best way to minimize oxygen exposure. 



After that there is always more work to do in the cellar .......
Turkovich Family Wines makes one of a kind etched bottles.
What to do when there is a bit of free time? Gas, fill and cork these bottles so they are ready for purchase in the tasting room.












Aug. 1st 
A custom crush wine has come in!
A nearby vineyard, Taber Ranch, brought in their grapes and has entrusted Turkovich Family Wines with making their wine.




First day of working the wine press for the custom crush Sauvignon Blanc.
These grapes are going in whole cluster which means no destemming.

Whole Cluster Pressing?
Entire grape bunches are pressed very gently to extract the juice. This minimizes the amount of harsh malic acid and astringent tannins that naturally exist in the skins, seeds and stems.

Working the bladder press:
The wine is pressed by inflating the balloon (bladder) to a certain PSI (pounds per square inch) for a certain amount of time. The higher the PSI, the more the wine will be pressed.  The winemaker here prefers this press over others because you get a gentler press. A gentler press prevents the seeds from cracking which can give off unwanted flavors in wine. 



Roll Cage: To break up the cake
Air: To inflate the bladder to press the wine
Vac: To deflate the bladder, and roll the cage again



The how to




Grapes going into the press





Adding enzymes to the wine while in the pressing period helps the pulp/juice to better release from its' skins; more juice=more wine! 





Grape Pomace: 
The left over skins, stems, and solid remains left over after the full clusters have been pressed. 




 Lab:(°Bx)
Checking Brix levels in grapes to see if they are ready to harvest.....
When measuring the Brix must levels in wine grapes we are measuring the sugar in the must, this then determines how much alcohol a wine will have. 






Brix Secrets from Wine Folly




Checking pH on grape must is a way to measure ripeness in relation to acidity.
Low pH = crisp and tart taste
Higher pH = possibly susceptible to bacterial growth

Winefolly Understanding Acidity 









Aug. 2nd 

Sanitizing Tanks to Get Ready for Harvest Wine
Getting everything ready, hooking up the hoses, and running through the procedure for sanitizing these vats is no joke! It's hard work, your arms will burn from the constant workout, and your back will be tired from the bending over. Keep fit, eat healthy, get adequate rest, and make sure to stretch! Your body will thank you for it. 













Aug. 3rd 
Racking custom crush white (Sauvignon Blanc)

This is the first racking of the custom crush wine; the reason for racking is to get the juice off its' sediment which is also considered natural filtration. When fermentation starts the wine will eventually be racked again, but of course some lees will be left which are great for the aromatics in this wine and also for the mouth feel and nutrients. 



We want the clear juice flowing through.




The juice is becoming a little cloudy, so we are almost to the lees, sediment, and gunk we want to rack off.

We are finished! The stuff that sits on the bottom of the tank needs to be racked off and disposed of.




Aug. 4th
1st Day of Harvest

Destemming
Grape clusters go in, the grapes are gently pulled away from their stems, and grapes and juice come out.
Some winemakers keep small fragments of the stems to increase tannin in the wine; stems can also act as little channels to help juice find its way out of the berry.




This is a serious arm workout! Three varieties (Chardonnay, Viognier, and Alicante Bouchet) came in this day, so my arms were feeling it.



Out comes the stems


No more stems, we are left with grapes and juice.



 Working the Wine Press


Grapes being pressed turns into juice, which is pumped into tanks inside the cellar.



The stems have been removed so there is a lot more free run juice to begin with compared to a full cluster press.


Viognier: The Gummy Bears of Wine
These pesky little grapes are a bit hard to deal with when going through the pressing process; the pulp and skins of Viognier stick together like glue, making it hard for the pulp to release from its' skins. Rice wholes, picture below, are added to the destemmed grapes which help create little channels in order to help the juice find its' way out of the berry during pressing.




Rice Wholes
Rice Wholes
The last destemming and pressing of the day, Alicante Bouschet! A variety that not only gives off color from its' skins, but also from its' pulp!








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